We took the dingy back to the beach at Somo Somo. I wore a tank top with an actual skirt - instead of my usual bathing suit with wrap around sarong. The guys looked great in their shirts and shorts.
We went to the home of the mayor, not really knowing where we were supposed to be for the feast. It was already dark. The sun sets around 6:15 p.m. in Fiji this time of the year. The feast was to begin at 7 p.m.
They had us sit there for awhile and then Pastor Kali showed up. He appologized for being in his rugby gear. There was a huge tournament between villages happening in a couple of days and rugby is very very big in this part of the world. He had been at practice with the other players.
He showed us to the feast location and then excused himself to clean up and change.
We were seated on the ground under a low thatch roofed shelter. A woven mat was placed on the ground. I think it was woven from palm tree leaves. They had them lying everywhere drying in stacks in the sun.
A beautiful and very fragrant flower lei was placed around each of our heads. They look wonderful with the clothing we had chosen for the occasion.
Somehow they had rigged up a power source and had a single flourescent light bulb burning at the top of the shelter.
Brian began making animal balloons again for the kids. Swarms of them showed up. It's so delightful to see these little dark faces with bright white teeth smiling eagerly waiting for their turn to get a balloon. Often the bigger ones would get a balloon and pass it down to the smaller ones. There is no grabbing, or pushing or shoving, just happy little kids delighted at something new.
They all wanted their photo taken and then wanted to see it on the camera. Brian says that some people bring a printer and after taking photos, go back to their boat, print them and return with photos to give to the kids.
Soon the mayor was helping to blow up the balloons and the pastor was tying them. Pastor Kali eventually learned to make a balloon dog himself.
They had been cooking and preparing all day.
The main dishes had been put into a cooking pit and covered in large leaves. We think they were probably from a banana tree. I took pictures as they uncovered the pit and began putting all the food in dishes and placing it under the shelter.
Eventually there was enough food there for a small army. Yet the only one's feasting were the 3 of us and Pastor Keli. We were served on nice plates with flatwear and served a lovely fruit drink in glasses. All the ladies who prepared the food, the mayor, and the children sat around and watched us enjoy this fabulous meal.
Jess loved the boiled fish.
My favorite was definitely the tuna baked in the pit with coconut and taro leaves.
When I asked Brian which was his favorite, he said it was either the tuna or the clam soup.
I also really enjoyed the baked squash done in the pit. It was combined with some type of meat and lots of other great things.
We barely made a dent in any of it.
As soon as we were finished, they cleaned up the plates and the dishes in front of us and began sharing the rest of the meal with all the people who had been watching us eat. They all eat with their hands.
After we ate, we were offered the opportunity to enjoy Kava with the mayor. It is a gift and a ritual a bit like the native americans often accept gifts of tobacco and use them in their ceremonies.
Kava is usually drunk by the men. It has a slightly intoxicating effect. The people I've talked to who have tried it, indicate that it makes your mouth go numb.
With a female chief, it was O.K. for women in this village to drink Kava. It was offered to all 3 of us. I kindly refused. Jess and Brian participated.
The mayor poured the Kava into a cloth placed over a large bowl. The cloth is wound around kind of like a giant tea bag and it is dipped into the water, then squeezed and dipped again until the water becomes the correct color and consistency. Then it is dipped out with bowls made from coconuts. The mayor takes his first. When it is offered to someone, they clap twice, then drink the entire bowl, clap once more, and then place the bowl on the ground. At least that is how it is done in this particular village.
Jess and Brian each had one bowl. Later on they had another. Jess slept like a baby afterwards. Brian couldn't sleep at all.
Brian had brought along his Ukulele and began to play along with the Mayor who was strumming his guitar. The Mayor sang and was joined by several others from the village on some songs. I took lots of photos and even a few videos.
We said farewell to our hosts and drove the dingy back to the boat usng a flashlight to see.
What a yummy and unforgetable meal.
Wonderful memories from Fiji,
Debbie Takara Shelor
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